Thanan and I have been mourning the loss of M Wells over the last year, remembering
how we met up one cheery morning, ate bowls of fat, and then each went home to our respective boroughs to pass out. It was a great meal.
Well quite excitedly,
M Wells is back ! Now as a Dinette operating out of MOMA PS1 in Long Island City. The whole space is bright, warm, and looks like a classroom.
The full menu is displayed on a green chalkboard.
It's hard to read when giant obnoxious Thai heads are in the way (instantly brings me back to memories of elementary school again).
Although there are a few community type tables, most of the seating is in desk form, complete with pad and crayons in the desk drawer for you to act all studious while waiting for your food to be served.
There are loose leaf teas served in glass cups promoting life.
Matcha is mixed tableside by waitresses in leather hotpants.
Now, all of the entrees seem small, but they are understandably so - there should be Occupy Wall St. picketers out front, because these dishes were
rich beyond belief. (This is what happens when you get a foodie who works in financial services...I'll be here all night, folks!)
Yulee ordered the potato and uni, doused in a light, citrusy yuzu sabayon, and topped with a poached egg.
The violet potatoes were tender and earthy, the uni delicate, and the yuzu sauce just brilliant in lightening the whole dish.
I went for the bone marrow and escargot tart - M Wells typically serves bone marrow and escargot in the cow bones itself, but now given the choice of having a surefire heart attack for breakfast by putting pure fat on a buttery crust, sign me up !
I'd probably recommend most people not to eat this as an entree, and share this ridiculously decadent dish to feel better about oneself and just not die. The roasted onion jam spread added nice tang to the rich chunks of bone marrow, and the chewy bits of escargot and porcini mushrooms help break things up a bit also.
The surprise best dish at the table was the foie gras and oats. Simply put, it's oatmeal with nuts, currants, apricots and a fat wallop of foie gras on top.
I would eat oatmeal everyday if it tasted like this. Creamy, nutty and just magical - especially when combined with the ever so succulent foie gras.
We asked the waitress how the oatmeal was cooked, because it's startlingly tasty, and she said, "Well, I'd imagine it tastes good because of all the maple sugar and...butter...lots of butter." Yes, I'd imagine so indeed!
Han's Nonsensical Rating:
Foie-get about your diet ! It's winter ! Your arteries need a fresh coat of fun, indulgent fat !
M Wells Dinette
MoMA PS1 22-25 Jackson Ave, Long Island City, NY 11101